A Delicious Reason to Go to Dunrobin

A Delicious Reason to Go to Dunrobin - theHumm August 2016

If you do not live in Dunrobin or drive through it en route, it is an unlikely destination — although frequently mentioned in travel directions (as in “go through Dunrobin and…”). But we are pleased to report that there is a great reason to go to Dunrobin. The engagingly named Heart and Soul Café is that and more. Should you be a fan of the Monte Cristo sandwich, Dunrobin might even become a place of pilgrimage.

For those devoted to the pursuit of perfection in the subkingdom of fried sandwiches, the restaurant’s name itself is a clue; a Monte Cristo is not “health food”, despite its offering nourishment for the soul and enough cholesterol to provide a frisson of danger to the heart. Fugu eaters are said to enjoy a tingly reminder of their mortality at enormous cost and inconvenience (Weetabix considers fugu to be an over-rated dish and notes that the portions are too small). At the Heart and Soul, perfection in the form of a Monte Cristo sandwich can be enjoyed without the smoke or the expense of the cigar of the same name. Weetabix is compelled to point out that a Monte Cristo cigar can not, in conscience, be recommended for any reason (but it is a damn fine smoke!).

A sharp tug of the editorial leash returns us to the kingdom of sandwiches. Cookery offers endless possibilities of combining ingredients and preparation techniques. When skillfully done, the whole is uniquely different from a simple sum of its parts. Nutrition may be enhanced too, but Weetabix cannot claim to be driven by considerations of nutritional balance here. A Monte Cristo is not an example of good nutrition so much as it is the zenith of sandwichdom’s approach to perfection via integration of flavour and presentation.

It is logically impossible to prove that anything is “the best”, but an experimental approach can be taken to optimization. Systematic exploration around a peak experience by varying the amount of cheese or the type of meat could support an effort to optimize a generic Monte Cristo. There are, after all, eight major variables, and so a serious exploration of Monte Cristo space calls for only 50,000 or so sandwiches to be made and sampled. Clearly this is a project for a dedicated experimentalist. A different approach recognizes that the problem is not a simple combinatorial exercise — rather it is a matter of taste. The Monte Cristo is not a sandwich for an aesthete. It is certainly not for those of the “less is more” persuasion, nor is it a sandwich for those in search of “light, refreshing or crisp”. Finger food for the avid dieter it is not.

What it is is a sublime blend of rich flavours that mount a full-on gustatory assault. It is a veritable panzer attack on your sandwich-appreciation apparatus. The Monte Cristo is not a subtle sandwich; although it is not without its delicate side — a bit of crustiness provides a light fried crunch to bites of gooey chewy goodness. Served with a side of dark maple syrup, it can offer a kaleidoscope of sweet and savoury combinations. Lost in a thicket of mutually reinforcing gustatory memories, the forest is in danger of being lost amidst the trees — best to leave before being trapped by the copse.

Weetabix is pleased to report that the Monte Cristo is not the only fare on offer at the Heart and Soul Cafe and that several other menu items were sampled with uniformly pleasurable results. A confessional correction — change “sampled” to “devoured”, and note that portions are generous but Weetabix is dedicated.

Entering the Heart and Soul one passes through a small vestibule decorated with many awards that have been earned by Jim and Jodie Bowen for consistently providing outstanding quality and service to their customers. The premises are invitingly cozy and decorated with some interesting wall art. The atmosphere is informal and service is friendly and efficient. Jim runs the front and Jodie the kitchen. Some of her recipes are Canadian Traditional sourced from the Laura Secord cookbook, a rich mine of delectable offerings not censored by revisionist foodists of the anhedonic fringe. Her soups are souperb!

Operations are smooth and efficient — something that is reflected in the excellent value proposition they offer their customers: good food at good prices. Jodie is a talented cook with a flair for desserts, and her signature carrot cake is not to be missed. Weetabix regrets that they do not stay open for dinner, but this is an excellent spot for lunch and they do a significant breakfast trade with an established and loyal clientele. Combining excellent ingredients with skill and flair, the Heart and Soul is a recommended destination for the discriminating gourmand. For those inclined to have a Monte Cristo, lean no further but you will be lean no more.

The Heart and Soul Café is located at 2741 Dunrobin Road. Visit them at heartandsoulcafe.ca or call 832–9942 for reservations.

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A Delicious Reason to Go to Dunrobin - theHumm August 2016